So today was a day of the unexpected. Having made my way down from Poggio Moiano and then up the hill the other side - encountering a Danish pilgrim heading towards Assisi on the way, it actually felt good getting back to walking.
As part of my reflecting yesterday I did wonder if I had it in me to get this walk finished. With a sore hip/back and shoes that took ages to dry out, having had such a rough day the day before I kind of felt 'done'. But as I got going again today with only the odd twinge of discomfort I felt inspired again and confident that I can make it to my destination!
There was quite a bit of walking through forest today and green paths initially and it felt very therapeutic! I'd post some pictures but there isn't any internet at this accommodation so you'll have to use your imagination (at least until I get to better connection hopefully tomorrow!)
Partway between Poggio Moiano and a village called Ponticelli, where one of the guidebooks said there was a lovely cafe bar who were very welcoming to pilgrims where I was planning on stopping for a coffee, I was coming down a hillside and spotted a fire on a hill in the distance. It wasn't the easiest to photograph because of the distance but in this photo you can at least see the smoke. In person, the bright orange flames were visible, leaping and jumping.
Straight away my thinking went to Moses and the burning bush.
Now Moses was tending the flock of Jethro his father-in-law, the priest of Midian, and he led the flock to the far side of the wilderness and came to Horeb, the mountain of God. There the angel of the Lord appeared to him in flames of fire from within a bush. Moses saw that though the bush was on fire it did not burn up. So Moses thought, “I will go over and see this strange sight—why the bush does not burn up.” When the Lord saw that he had gone over to look, God called to him from within the bush, “Moses! Moses!” And Moses said, “Here I am.” “Do not come any closer,” God said. “Take off your sandals, for the place where you are standing is holy ground.”
Exodus 3:1-5
And I watched the fire for a moment wondering how Moses might have felt seeing just one bush burning in the desert. And then I had a very strong prompt from God that this, for me, this day, was holy ground. And that I, like Moses, should remove my shoes.
And so I did. I know some of you aren't so keen so I won't post a picture of my bare feet, just the shoes I took off:
But as I stood in bare feet on the rough grass it was a profound and special moment. In those minutes, I stood on holy ground and thought about how far my feet have travelled - not just on this pilgrimage - but in life. From my first steps as a toddler, cheered on by my parents, to stepping into school, and then on to life as a young parent - cheering my own children on as they in turn took their first steps. Then to walking with Andy, before taking steps into ministry training and now - in this pilgrimage that stands as a marker of just how far I've come. And knowing God has led, and guided and directed me every step of the way.
Whether you turn to the right or to the left, your ears will hear a voice behind you, saying, “This is the way; walk in it.”
Isaiah 30:21
This was amazing enough but God hasn't finished with me for the day. I made my way on to the bar/cafe in Ponticelli called 'Bar Mariano's and asked for a cappuccino and a stamp for my credential (it's filling up which is very exciting!). And the lady there made conversation with me about where I'd come from and where I was going. But then she commented on my arms. Now I've not shared so far, but despite using sunscreen, being out for many hours walking in short sleeves had caused me to get sunburnt on my forearms. Then last Monday this developed blisters which wasn't very pleasant - it's been quite sore and red. I did get some cream in Rieti on Wednesday but while it has soothed things a bit my arms do look a bit of a mess!
This lovely lady then proceeded to treat me - firstly dusting my arms gently with flour (to dry things up) which caused her husband (I think) to crack a joke that they were going to cook me 🤣 (He had better English than his wife.) After a few minutes, whilst I finished my coffee, she then took me to the bathroom at the back of the cafe and washed the flour off, patting my arms dry gently with kitchen roll. When we returned to the front her husband appeared with part of an aloe vera leaf which he proceeded to peel the end off and then liberally spread the gel up and down my arms, using the leaf like a paintbrush - which made us laugh!
I then sat for a moment to let the gel dry and whilst he wrapped the rest of the leaf in foil and placed it in a bag and then gave it to me to take with me with instructions from the lady to use it to soothe my arms in the coming days.
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| Gift-wrapped aloe |
I was a bit blown away by the care this lovely couple showed for me, a random passer-by. They really blessed me with how they were so concerned for me and I carried on with my walk just so touched by their unexpected kindness.
A short shower caused me to don wet weather gear for a short while (attractive as ever) but then almost immediately afterwards the sun came out again and made me take it all off again! Which only reminded me of that fable about the sun and the rain and who could get the man in the story to take off his coat!
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| Nerola |
I got to Nerola shortly afterwards, but rather than following the app directions to the final point instead I took an alternative route as my accommodation for the night is 2km south of the town. I shall have to make my way back to Nerola tomorrow for the start of the walk to Palombara Sabina.
For today though, I was pleased to arrive at my accommodation. It's rather remote again as it's another Agriturismo - a working farm. On my arrival I was told by the lady, Sabina, that she had a treat for me - which was some bread with some of their own local olive oil. On my first night I'd had a salad covered in olive oil that had quite a strong flavour, but this was light and delicious, and just what I needed after my walk today. Another unexpected blessing!
And after a bit of recovery time I've sat on the balcony outside my room writing this and just noticed that there are a few aloe vera plants in pots so God continues to shower me with blessings. And for that I am truly thankful!
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